113rd Auction

2025/11/8

Lot 23

Rolex
White Dial Submariner

A very attractive vintage diving wristwatch with date

Sold

estimated
12.00016.000 €
Price realized
16.900 €
specific features
Case
Steel, screw back with marking 1680, bidirectional rotating black bezel with tritium pearl, screwed "Twinlock" winding crown, steel "Oyster" bracelet ref. 93150 with diver's extension link, 7/5 bracelet elements, endlinks stamped 580, clasp VD (1979), total length 185 mm.
Dial
Matte black, tritium marking, luminous indexes (tritium), luminous Mercedes hands (tritium).
Movement
Automatic.
Case no.5658806
Ref.1680
Cal.1570
Diam.40 mm
Circa1978
Ctry.Switzerland


This Submariner is in outstanding condition. The edges of the case are still sharp and the steel "Oyster" bracelet is in top condition. The dial is perfectly preserved and has acquired a beautiful patina. The tritium luminous mass on indexes and hands has darkened to a warm creamy hue over the years. The tritium dot on the bezel is also very well preserved. The movement starts up immediately. The watch comes with box and punched original certificate, issued by jewellers Christ in Frankfurt, Main on March 21, 1980.


The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 dating from 1978 is an iconic model in the history of the brand and a true classic among vintage sports watches. It marks an important transition period in the development of the Submariner range, which had been known as a professional diver’s watch since the 1950s. Reference 1680 was the first Submariner with date display and the distinctive Cyclops lense on the sapphire crystal. It launched in 1969 and quickly replaced the 5512 as the most popular model. The new version featured the distinctive Submariner lettering, which was red originally and changed to white circa 1975.
Reference 1680 was replaced in 1981 by reference 16800 with caliber 3035, which was now waterproof to a depth of 300 m, due to a new sapphire crystal. For safety reasons the bezel was now unidirectional only.