112nd Auction

2025/5/10

Lot 63

Rolex
Submariner

A very rare and charismatic vintage diving wristwatch with "gilt dial". This is the last Submariner reference without crown guards

Sold

estimated
19.00025.000 €
Price realized
23.800 €
specific features
Case
Steel, screw back with marking 5508 III/59, screwed "Twinlock" winding crown without crown guard, bidirectional rotating reeded black bezel, riveted steel "Oyster" bracelet ref. 7206 without marking, endlinks stamped 58, "Paw" clasp dated 2/61, total length 175 mm.
Dial
Black, "meters first" glossy dial, luminous indexes (tritium with zinc sulphite), flat Mercedes hands with luminous material (tritium with zinc sulphite).
Movement
Automatic.
Case no.489295
Ref.5508
Cal.1530
Diam.38 mm
Circa1959
Ctry.Switzerland


This attractive diver’s watch comes with a beautiful stainless steel case, which – in our opinion – remains unpolished, and the original bezel with well-preserved inlay. The glossy black "gilt dial" shows some very minor fissures, which, however, in no way detract from the radiant personality of this timepiece. The dial also features charmingly aged custard-coloured luminous indexes and Mercedes hands with a tritium and zinc sulphide coat, which we recommend cleaning. We also recommend replacing the plexiglass, which is cracked. All in all the watch boasts an attractive and harmonious patina, which makes it a charismatic and desirable timepiece waiting to be worn.


Until around 1964 the Submariner dials showed the so-called gilt printing, but Rolex changed this to get closer to its vision of the perfect diving watch. Two final experimental Submariner models without crown guards were introduced: Reference 5508, replacing the References 6536 and 6536/1. These models were fitted with new 1500 series movements; Cal. 1530 and Cal.1560 were used. Reference 5508 was guaranteed waterproof to 100m/330ft and could be delivered with or without the word "Chronometer" on the dial. This reference was produced approximately from 1958 to 1962.