Lot 64

Rolex

Submariner

A very rare and charismatic vintage diving wristwatch with "gilt dial". This is the last Submariner reference without crown guards

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This attractive diver’s watch features a beautiful, very distinctive case with the original bevels proudly present and only a few slight signs of wear ("sleeve polish"). The watch also has a very well preserved "gilt dial" with a glossy black surface, showing some minor fissures in the centre and near the edges, which no not diminish the attractivity of the watch in any way. The lettering was applied by a special etching method and appears golden in colour, which led to the designation "gilt dial". The dial also features charmingly aged custard-coloured luminous indexes and Mercedes hands, with zinc sulphide used as luminous material. The well preserved bezel inlay is particularly charming – this is an altogether attractive and perfect watch for wearing.

Until around 1964 the Submariner dials showed the so-called gilt printing, but Rolex changed this to get closer to its vision of the perfect diving watch. Two final experimental Submariner models without crown guards were introduced: Reference 5508, replacing the References 6536 and 6536/1. These models were fitted with new 1500 series movements; Cal. 1530 and Cal.1560 were used. Reference 5508 was guaranteed waterproof to 100m/330ft and could be delivered with or without the word "Chronometer" on the dial. This reference was produced approximately from 1958 to 1962.