112nd Auction

2025/5/10

Lot 70

Rolex
Orange Hand

A rare vintage wristwatch with date and 24h bezel - so called "Orange Hand"

Sold

estimated
15.000—22.000 €
Price realized
15.000 €
specific features
Case
Steel, screw back with marking 1655, screwed "Twinlock" winding crown, original Rolex service steel bezel with tachy scale (signs of wear), long "Oyster" steel bracelet ref. 78360 with signs of wear, endlinks stamped 580, Oysterlock folding clasp G (1982), total length 185 mm.
Dial
Black, luminous indexes (tritium), central arrow-shaped orange-coloured 24h hand, luminous baton hands (tritium).
Movement
Automatic.
Case no.7223205
Ref.1655
Cal.1570
Diam.38 mm
Circa1982
Ctry.Switzerland


The Rolex Explorer II reference 1655 is one of the most distinctive and powerful timepieces ever produced by the Rolex brand. The model was launched in 1971 and designed specially for adventurers, potholers and explorers, who were active in environments without natural light.
Reference 1655 comes in a robust 38 mm stainless steel case. The fixed bezel is one of the watch’s most distinctive features and makes it particularly useful for missions in environments without natural light. The dial is black with large bold hour markers, allowing for easy and accurate readability. The oversize, orange-coloured 24-hour hand gives the watch its nickname "Freccione" (Italian for large arrow). In connection with the 24-hour bezel this hand indicates a second time zone or a day/night distinction. Although Steve McQueen never appeared on any official photographs with this model, he is often referred to, when the Explorer II 1655 is discussed. Due to the one-of-a-kind design and the limited production run (until 1984) this is one of the most coveted vintage Rolex models.
The watch has a perfect dial and perfect hands. The tritium luminous material on indexes and hands has acquired a beautiful custard- and honey-coloured patina, respectively; the 24-hour hand has faded considerably and exhibits a refreshing light orange. Case and bezel show some honest signs of wear as well as some sleeve polish. With its attractive patina this is a watch ready for wear.