Lot 155

Patek Philippe

Gübelin

An extremely important and intricate, unpolished Geneva wristwatch in practically new condition, with double signature, chronograph, 30 min. counter, date, indications of day and month in German, moon phase and auxiliary seconds - delivered on February 18, 1985 to Gübelin in Zurich and sold on June 24, 1985

Sold

Some watches fascinate, others just blow your mind. And then there are timepieces such as the Patek Philippe 2499/100 – a masterpiece that does not only keep time but makes history.
Even among the iconic Patek Philippe models, reference 2499/100 stands out. This is regarded as one of the most precious and sought-after wristwatches ever made and embodies the supreme craftsmanship, the innovative power and the exclusiveness the Patek Philippe brand is famous for.
This remarkable piece from the 4th series is known as reference 2499/100 and was produced shortly before the production of the model was discontinued in 1985; it marks the end of this legendary series. Reference 2499 is among the rarest and most coveted creations produced by Patek Philippe. It is the timepiece to make collectors‘ hearts beat faster.
Reference 2499 was first introduced in 1951 and produced in four different series up until 1985. During the 35-year production run only circa 349 example were made. Reference 2499 was a direct successor of legendary reference 1518, which came on the market in 1941 and featured a serial-production chronograph movement with perpetual calendar. Given the small size of the watch case this was a sheer impossible feat. Only pocket watches and a handful of specially created wristwatches were capable of displaying that much information at once. Never before had a watchmaker managed to reduce such a complicated movement to such an extent. Reference 2499 continued this tradition, although with a somewhat larger case (first series at 36.2 mm compared to 35 mm for the 1518) and a more modern design, which is still considered timeless today.
The four series differ mainly in the design of the dials and the cases. The first series was in production from 1951 until circa 1956 and features square chronograph pushers, applied Arabic numerals and a tachymeter scale. It is the version most similar to its predecessor reference 1518.
Series two was launched circa 1956. It was the first to feature round chronograph pushers and either applied Arabic numerals or bar indexes, and a tachymeter scale. Watches from the third series have round chronograph pushers, applied bar indexes and an outer seconds ring – but no tachymeter scale. The series was produced from 1960 to the late 1970s.
The fourth and last of the series is known as 2499/100 and comes with round chronograph pushers, applied bar indexes and an outer seconds ring. It was launched in 1980 and features some distinctive differences to the other series: A flat sapphire crystal over the dial and the missing numeral 30 on the minute display because the date ring overlaps the minute track. This last series is often compared to its successor reference 3970, which replaced the 2499 series in 1985 and was fitted with an additional leap year display and an unobtrusive 24-hour hand. Most examples of series four were made in yellow gold, some few in rose gold; only two platinum versions were produced, with one of them now owned by the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva, while the other was previously owned by Eric Clapton and was sold by Christies for 3,443,000 Swiss Francs in 2012.
The Patek Philippe 2499/100 is powered by the highly complicated manual-wound movement calibre 13" CHR Q (13-130). It features a perpetual calendar, which automatically calculates the leap years, and a chronograph with ratchet wheel. The movements came to Patek Philippe as Valjoux calibre 23VZ, where they would be slightly modified and then finished there.
The case of this watch is made of 18 K yellow gold. Its 37,5 mm size lends it a discreet presence – powerful but never pretentious, prestigious but never excessive. The dial is a work of art in its own right. The classic layout of perpetual calendar and chronograph and the elegant moon phase display in the 6 o’clock position makes the 2499/100 one of the most beautiful timepieces ever created. The most remarkable and exciting feature of this watch, however, is the twin signature on the dial. It is one of only four 2499/100 models in yellow gold to bear the prestigious Gübelin signature on the dial.
Since the early days of the company, the timepieces created by the Patek Philippe brand have been sold by the most exclusive retailers and jewellers worldwide, who proudly signed their names on the dials of the watches. The trend to use double signatures on watches started with the cooperation with the famous jeweller Tiffany & Co. in New York who sold their first Patek Philippe watch in 1851. The partnership between the jeweller Gübelin and the maker Patek Philippe exists since 1854. This way both companies are closely connected to a range of watches with a high collectible value, so that on occasion of the 150 year anniversary in 2004 a wristwatch reference 5134 featuring a second time zone was launched in a limited edition.
This timepiece comes from the property of the original buyer and comes with original certificate of origin, dated June 24, 1985 and stamped by the Gübelin shop at Bahnhofstrasse in Zurich, as well as the original bill from Gübelin, which states that the watch was perfectly new and delivered to Güblin by Patek Philippe on February 1985, at a cost of 34,000 Swiss Francs. After the sale the watch was kept in a safe for years and only worn for special occasions, so that the gold case has slightly darkened and acquired a marvellous honey-coloured hue. The case still has its sharp edges and the hallmarks.
Among serious watch enthusiasts the 2499 is most likely the most desirable wristwatch in the world. It is more than a timekeeper – the watch is an investment, an heirloom, a symbol for eternity. It is the result of a decade-long process of perfection, a masterpiece reserved to a few only. In a world of trends that come and go, this watch is solid as a rock even in turbulent times – an icon that will never lose its value but increase in significance with every passing second. A Patek Philippe 2499/100 with Gübelin signature in perfect condition is not just a watch, it is a legacy.