Lot 273

Rolex

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A very rare and charismatic vintage diving wristwatch with "gilt dial". This is the last Submariner reference without crown guards

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This attractive diver’s watch comes with a "gilt dial" with glossy lacquer coating, which has some light fissures in the centre and near the edge, lending the watch an unusual patina. The writing was etched into the dial by a special process - it appears gold-coloured and the dials are therefore often identified as "gilt dials". It also features charmingly aged toffee-coloured luminous indexes and luminous Mercedes hands. The perfectly preserved bezel inlay is particularly attractive.

Until around 1964 the Submariner dials showed the so-called gilt printing, but Rolex changed this to get closer to its vision of the perfect diving watch. Two final experimental Submariner models without crown guards were introduced: Reference 5508, replacing the References 6536 and 6536/1. These models were fitted with new 1500 series movements; Cal. 1530 and Cal.1560 were used. Reference 5508 was guaranteed waterproof to 100m/330ft and could be delivered with or without the word "Chronometer" on the dial. This reference was produced approximately from 1958 to 1962.