109th Auction

2023/11/18

Lot 148

Patek Philippe
Gübelin

An exquisite, thin, double-signed Geneva dress watch in a platinum case, sold by Gübelin jewellers

Sold

estimated
10.00013.000 €
Price realized
13.800 €
specific features
Case
Platinum, push back.
Dial
Gold, silvered, applied diamond indexes.
Movement
Bridge movement, club-tooth lever escapement, gold screw compensation balance.
Case no.681316
Ref.600
Cal.17-140
Diam.43 mm
Circa1950
Ctry.Switzerland
Wt.53 g


This beautiful dress watch made by Patek Philippe circa 1950 is complicated not for its highly finished movement but for the rare handcraft of its dial. The dial, with fine white gold feuille hands, certainly made by the famous dial maker Stern Frères is of solid gold with silvering finish. Brand name and second counter are hand engraved and enameled. The minute marker is pearled by hand. The stone setting of dials became popular in the 1950s in the dial manufacturing. Stern used in those days a special technique from a patent of her workshop specialist Mr. Stumpo. The white gold settings are driven into specially prepared openings of the dial and fixed by handcraft to the back. The Techique allows a more harmonious and lower appearance to the dial surface.
Lit.: Le Cadran by Dr Crott, 2019 pages 248-255 and 328-329.
About 85 models of this reference appeared to the market in the last 30 years. That this reference model is a great classic from Patek is confirmed by its long production, on special demand, from 1933 to 1969. This one is for sure the best one of that reference that ever showed up in the market.