108th Auction

2023/5/20

Lot 281

Audemars Piguet
Royal Oak Quantième Perpétuel Automatique

A stunningly beautiful and important neo-vintage Geneva platinum wristwatch with perpetual calendar, moon phase, mother-of-pearl dial and sapphire caseback. In total, only 31 platinum models were sold. With Audemars Piguet extract from the archives

estimated
200.000300.000 €
Price realized
-
specific features
Case
Platinum, screwed on glazed back, AP platinum bracelet, bracelet length 135 mm, total length 180 mm.
Dial
Sky-blue mother-of-pearl, subdials for the indications of the day of the week, the date, the month and the moon phase with moon age indication.
Movement
Automatic.
Case no.C84199.035
Ref.25686PT
Cal.2120/2800
Diam.39 mm
Circa1991
Ctry.Switzerland
Wt.222 g


Reference 25868 was produced from 1989 and 1998 and is regarded a milestone in the history of the Royal Oak Quantième Perpétuel. It is the first model with perpetual calendar, where the crystal back reveals the exquisitely engraved rotor and the ultra-flat automatic calibre 2120/2800. This is also the first perpetual calendar, where Audemars Piguet used a range of novel materials for the dial and combined various materials for the case. According to the AP Chronicles the first Royal Oaks, reference 25686 in yellow gold and platinum were created in1989 to be followed by the steel models. In 1991 the first two-colour models in pink gold/platinum were delivered. Next was a perpetual calendar in pink gold and a new variant in steel and platinum in1994. The last version was produced in 1997 in platinum/pink gold in a reverse material design to the 1991 pink gold/platinum version. During the 10-year production run only 299 pieces were sold, 70 in yellow gold (BA), 31 in platinum (PT), 92 in steel (ST), 37 pieces in pink gold/platinum (RP), 18 in pink gold (OR), 26 in steel/platinum (SP) und 25 pieces in platinum/pink gold (PR).
This piece is one of only 31 copies of reference 25868PT, created from the most precious selected materials. The combination of platinum, one of the hardest of metals and the delicate light blue mother-of-pearl dial, harvested from inside the shells of mollusks, is incredibly attractive and breathtakingly beautiful. The natural, uneven mother-of-pearl surface creates a shimmering effect and is reminiscent of a cloudy sky - certainly a fitting surrounding for the shiny gold moon phase disc with stars.