Lot 238

Patek Philippe

An astronomical 18 K yellow gold Geneva wrist chronograph with 30 min. counter, perpetual calendar with moon phases, analog date, leap year indication, German weekday and month indicators and 24h indication. This watch was overhauled at Patek Philippe in October 2021 via Bucherer jewellers - with original box, original certificate, leather wallet, brochures, operating instructions, sales tag, setting pin and additional solid screw back

Patek Philippe’s reference 3970 is one of a series of remarkable and iconic wristwatches with perpetual calendar, which came into existence in 1941 with reference 1518, to be followed by reference 2499 in 1951 and eventually reference 3970/3971 in 1986, which was launched to commemorate the company's 150 year anniversary. The typical style elements of this series have remained the same over 80 years: They are the double window for the day and months display beneath the 12, two chronograph registers at 9:00 and 3:00 o'clock and of course the indication showing the phase of the moon beneath beneath 6:00 o'clock.
During the upheaval caused by the quartz crisis Patek Philippe realised the need for a more modern style: the dial was slightly changed with the 12 hours being integrated in the left chronograph register and the leap year display integrated in the right chronograph register. The case size was reduced by 1.5 mm to 36 mm. The Valjoux movement was replaced by a calibre on Lemania base.
The four design steps between 1986 and 2004 include mainly changes of the indexes and the hands, which were given more vibrant surfaces over the years.
There are four generations in total:
- First series (1986): has been sold with a solid push back, made exclusively in yellow gold and only in production for a short time.
- Second series (1987-1991): has been sold with a solid screw back and was produced in yellow, pink, and white gold with a few made in platinum too.
- Third series (1990-1995): has been sold with two screw backs, one solid and one glazed. The suffix "E" has been added to the reference number and stands for "Etanche" and means "waterproof". It was produced in yellow, pink, and white gold, and in platinum too.
- Fourth series (1995-2004): like the third series, but with 7-digit movement numbers instead of the former 6-digit ones.
As can also be seen from the enclosed extract from the archives, the present timepiece is from the fourth series, the production of which comprised about 2000 pieces. It was produced in yellow, pink and white gold and in platinum.

Thanks to the explosive popularity of collecting vintage Patek Philippe wristwatches during the early 1980s, the collectors had discovered the extreme rarity and lasting value of these watches. Patek Philippe also recognized the need for a more modern design of its most prominent model - the design had only undergone minor revisions over a period of 30 years. Patek Philippe had always had a discerning and loyal clientele, but had never been a high profile brand. When affluent individuals began purchasing modern Patek Philippe wristwatches to wear and enjoy, this changed dramatically. In a successful market of the late 1980s, the ref. 3970 turned into a "best seller" for Patek Philippe. Still only very few collectors realized the true rarity of certain variations for this watch, in particular, the endless possibilities for collecting ref. 3970 by dial variation or different styled indexes and/ or hands.