107th Auction

2022/11/19

Lot 183

Rolex
Tiffany & Co

A diver's highly attractive, very popular vintage wristwatch with date and extremely rare, original "Tiffany dial"

Sold

estimated
38.00050.000 €
Price realized
32.500 €
specific features
Case
Steel, screw back ref. 1680, screwed "Triplock" winding crown, "Oyster" fliplock bracelet ref. 93150 with diver's extension link, endlinks stamped 580, clasp VD (1979), bracelet length 140 mm, total length 185 mm.
Dial
Black, tritium marking, luminous indexes (tritium), luminous Mercedes hands (re-lumed).
Movement
Automatic.
Case no.5447844
Ref.1680
Cal.1570
Diam.39 mm
Circa1978
Ctry.Switzerland


Reference 1680 was produced from 1969 to 1980. When this watch was made the examples with 660ft/200m on the dial targeted mainly the U.K. and North American markets, whereas examples with 200m/660ft were aimed at the rest of the world.
In addition to Rolex watches with "exotic" or "tropical dials", the "Tiffany dials" are another, highly coveted model variation. They often fetch remarkable prices at auctions, because to the avid Rolex collectors the Tiffany dials represent a long gone era in the history of the brand. While co-branding was rather common in the 1960s, it would be unthinkable today due to the strict quality control Rolex maintains. These dials were regular model-specific dials imprinted with the "Tiffany & Co." name. Lettering, colours and spacing often varied, making this type of dial a particular favourite among counterfeiters. This, however, makes those Tiffany dials with a certificate of authentication such as this one particularly rare – treasures that have the hearts of true Rolex aficionados beating faster!