106th Auction

2022/5/21

Lot 484

Omega / Chs. Tissot & Fils
Udall and Ballou

A diver's extremely rare vintage wristwatch in a patented special case, delivered to the renowned jeweller Udall and Ballou in New York

estimated
2.5003.500 €
Price realized
-
specific features
Case
Patented steel case, push back.
Dial
Silvered.
Movement
Manual.
Case no.684393
Cal.Omega Watch & Co. 19
Diam.24 x 34 mm
Circa1935
Ctry.Switzerland


With its special case design, this type of watch became known as the world's first diver’s watch. The case was invented by Louis Alix in Geneva, who registered this case as a patent in Switzerland on March 10, 1930. The case consists of two individual steel parts pushed together; a lever on the back presses the outer case on the lugs so that the watch is completely waterproof. The sapphire glass is sealed in the case. The watertight twin case and the air cushion between inner and outer case provide perfect protection for the movement, so that sudden temperature changes can be compensated for. The crown is hidden in the case to avoid any kind of breakage and thus ensure additional impermeability.
The case was mainly used by Omega as the "Marine" model in the 1930s, known as the world’s first diver’s watch. In order to strengthen their position in the market and offer their customers a much wider product range, Tissot and Omega became partners in 1930. Both signatures can be found in the movement.
Udall and Ballou company was founded in 1888 and developed into one of the best-known and most successful jewellers in New York in the second quarter of the 20th century. The company was especially known for its wonderful Art Deco designs and was located on 5th Avenue in New York. Branches followed in Palm Beach in Florida and in Newport Rhode Island, as well as an office in Rue Lafayette in Paris.
The company was forced to close after the Second World War, but the jewellery creations survived and are still highly sought after today.