102nd Auction
2020/6/29
Lot 187
Omega, Swiss, "Constellation Grand Luxe Chronomètre Automatic", Movement No. 13767202, Case No. 11258946, Ref. OT 14.355 SC, Cal. 354, 35 mm, 123 g, circa 1954
An important, extremely rare, vintage automatic wristwatch with cloisonné enamel dial "Observatory" and oscillating weight winding movement, produced on November 29, 1954 and sold to Spain - with original box and Omega extract of the archives
Case: 18k rose gold, screw back with observatory hallmark, "Omega" 18k gold bracelet with rounded edges and brick elements, bracelet length 140 mm, total length 180 mm. Dial: gold and polychrome enamel.
The Cloisonné enamel dial shows the observatory in Geneva against a two-colour blue nocturnal sky with gold stars; it repeats the medallion embossed on the casebacks of the Constellation models. The creation was presented in the exhibition "Montres et Bijoux" in 1953 as reference OT 2700.
The Omega collection has only very few Cloisonné enamel dials in its range and all of them were created by Stern Frères. Hardly any of them ever appear on the market today. The multi-coloured enamel dials were created from 1946 to 1956 almost exclusively for wristwatches, with motifs such as tropical landscapes, mythical figures, magical flowers, maps and emblems. In 1954 Omega produced a small series of Cloisonné dials that show the dome of the observatory in Geneva.
The magnificently ornamented dials are the result of a highly elaborate process: At first the emailleur sets the outline of the chosen motif with a fine gold wire. He then fills the individual compartments with enamel powder and - depending on the desired colour - uses several layers to intensify the effects of colour and light and the grading of the materials. The piece is then repeatedly fired in a kiln in a precisely defined order at around 1000 degrees Celsius causing the powder to melt. Finally it is hand-polished until obtaining a perfectly flat surface. This technique demands an incredibly high level of skill and comes with a high reject rate. Because of the immense expense, the Cloisonné enamel dials were only created for Omega’s most important timepieces such as the wrist chronometers "Constellation de Luxe" that have been leading the range since 1952.
An identical watch is illustrated and described in: "Omega" by Marco Richon, Bienne 2007, p. 714.
An important, extremely rare, vintage automatic wristwatch with cloisonné enamel dial "Observatory" and oscillating weight winding movement, produced on November 29, 1954 and sold to Spain - with original box and Omega extract of the archives
Case: 18k rose gold, screw back with observatory hallmark, "Omega" 18k gold bracelet with rounded edges and brick elements, bracelet length 140 mm, total length 180 mm. Dial: gold and polychrome enamel.
The Cloisonné enamel dial shows the observatory in Geneva against a two-colour blue nocturnal sky with gold stars; it repeats the medallion embossed on the casebacks of the Constellation models. The creation was presented in the exhibition "Montres et Bijoux" in 1953 as reference OT 2700.
The Omega collection has only very few Cloisonné enamel dials in its range and all of them were created by Stern Frères. Hardly any of them ever appear on the market today. The multi-coloured enamel dials were created from 1946 to 1956 almost exclusively for wristwatches, with motifs such as tropical landscapes, mythical figures, magical flowers, maps and emblems. In 1954 Omega produced a small series of Cloisonné dials that show the dome of the observatory in Geneva.
The magnificently ornamented dials are the result of a highly elaborate process: At first the emailleur sets the outline of the chosen motif with a fine gold wire. He then fills the individual compartments with enamel powder and - depending on the desired colour - uses several layers to intensify the effects of colour and light and the grading of the materials. The piece is then repeatedly fired in a kiln in a precisely defined order at around 1000 degrees Celsius causing the powder to melt. Finally it is hand-polished until obtaining a perfectly flat surface. This technique demands an incredibly high level of skill and comes with a high reject rate. Because of the immense expense, the Cloisonné enamel dials were only created for Omega’s most important timepieces such as the wrist chronometers "Constellation de Luxe" that have been leading the range since 1952.
An identical watch is illustrated and described in: "Omega" by Marco Richon, Bienne 2007, p. 714.
Sold
estimated
55.000—70.000 €
Price realized
77.900 €